Morecambe’s West End Pier was lost to a storm in 1974 and its central pier was demolished in 1992. It basically died of old age and that was the end of Morecambe’s piers. The only pier like structure remaining is the Stone Jetty, originally a rail hub. Work was done on the jetty in the 1990’s and now, together with the iconic Midland Hotel which sits at its foot, it is one of Morecambe’s outstanding features. It’s home to a tern project that includes games, quizzes, tern sculptures and a large compass. It also boasts a café which was originally a station upon which a small lighthouse sits.
Its a favourite diversion for those walking along Morecambe’s newly resurfaced promenade (the prom) with its restored wave wall. As you walk out along the Stone Jetty you will see boats moored on the right hand side which make it look like an old fishing town. A Time and Tide bell sits on that side of the jetty which rings at particular high tides and is designed to signal the danger of climate change.
At low tide you will see deep gullies to the left of the jetty where the sands have been gauged by the tide. These are ever changing and are a reminder of the hidden capricious nature of Morecambe Bay with its sinking sands and racing tides due to the shallowness and lack of incline in the bay floor. It was slightly grey this morning but not to the point of being dull — and it was windy. The tide was coming in and had begun to creep up the rocks at the foot of Trafalgar Point, an extension at the head of the Jetty.
I walked along a spit that juts from the left of the extension and drops towards the sand, and watched as the tide flowed over the already filled, but clearly outlined, gullies. The waves were beginning to crash against the jetty wall now as incoming waves bounced back and clashed with the waves incoming. I could see the undercurrents pulling back the advancing waves choreographing a show that was beginning to find its feet. Two sea fisherman had been fishing off the end of the point but now cast their lines further down the jetty on what would be the left (east) side going towards towards the hotel.
While the waves rose only a little above the rocks, they forced spray over the rails and onto the jetty surface. I wanted to look down at the theatre I’d seen from the wings so I walked back up the spit and to the jetty head. The sea had now risen above the rocks and below me the water heaved, sunk and circled like it was hungry for a victim. I put my glasses in my pocket as the lure of the water seemed stronger than their keenness to hug my nose and then I got soaked like a clown in a circus yet it seemed more like the well timed sloppy thank you from your pooch.
I walked back down the spit and a father with what looked like his three young boys walked towards the point. Seeing the spray coming over the rails he stopped the boys short of the jetty head but they still marvelled at the force of the waves. After a little while they walked back down the jetty and I followed, after some time on my own there. As I walked back I could taste the salt on my lips but very quickly my coat and jeans were dried by the wind. Back home I showered and went to sit by the window looking over the bay that was now bathed in sunlight and the wind becalmed.
On the jetty, watching the tide come in, I was mindful of the moon moving billions of tons of water across the surface of the globe. It’s a force we don’t feel but is evident in our tides. I wondered why a full moon has any influence over anything when its merely a facade — its no fuller than a new moon, just more visible. I saw the tides as dispassionate while passion evoking. I love watching the waves play against each other and against the sea wall in what is not a game — all players are subject to the wind and none participate out of choice.
As I walked back it seemed to me that earth has little consideration for the humans doing their worst to ruin their environment. The tides will keep turning, the waves will continue crashing and nature will find its own level. We will not ruin earth except for ourselves. The ages have birthed new species and self-extinguished others. Its not nature we’re putting in peril but our home in it. Earlier I’d looked up at the father with his boys and understood why we need to fight the wreckers of our home. Nature will not be kind to them as they move through adulthood if we don’t park the wrecking ball.
I’ve not heard the toll of the bell. I’m not sure I care to.